This late-release microcuvée has spent no less than 6 ½ years on the finger yeast in a large, old acacia cask before bottling. The long aging has contributed a fantastic depth which represents exactly what Grüner Veltliner has to offer the world; fullness, elegance and a transparency that gives the terroir an opportunity to shine through. From the 2015 vintage, it is also titled ‘Grosse Reserve’, which makes sense in relation to the storage regime.
Gutsreserve translates incorrectly as ‘the winery’s best wine’ and comes from 0.5 hectares in the high-lying Oberfucha, where granulite dominates the subsoil and the grüner veltliner favourite, loess, in the top layer.
This is a characterful wine with fullness and extract. The explosive element gives a wine worthy of storage; grüner veltliner of this quality can be stored for a very long time and will eventually become a sharp competitor on the wine front for the dishes that scream white, ripe Burgundy.
The nose has great intensity with ripe, golden fruit of peach, tangerine, parsnip, green herbs/seaweed and salty minerals. The taste has a creamy, rounded fullness with balanced acidity, mineral nerves and a dense extract sensation. It appears with clear aging aromas, but can remain for a long time if you wish.
If you need a light, refreshing grüner veltliner, you should try the house’s lighter cuvées – this is a small-intellectual wine that does not have the springiness and fresh fruit aromas of youth, but has instead acquired (almost!) priceless maturity.
In terms of food, Geyehof Grüner Veltliner Gutsreserve will go well with the same dishes as strong, white Burgundy; now that you’ve had a go at the wine side, why not give it gas in the kitchen with a fried hake with a voluminous sauce.