Producer
This is Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux, one of the great historic estates of the Médoc. The property was acquired in 1853 by Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild, and in 1973 Mouton was elevated to Premier Cru Classé (First Growth) after a long campaign led by Baron Philippe — the only major change ever made to the original 1855 classification. Mouton was also ahead of its time in choosing to bottle at the château as early as 1924.
How 2023 tastes
The 2023 vintage is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, with 13.3% alcohol. The official profile and published critics’ notes point in the same direction: blackcurrant, blackberry and other dark fruits, along with graphite/pencil lead, dark chocolate, espresso, smoky notes, violet and truffle. On the palate, it is described as medium- to full-bodied, with a powerful yet polished tannic structure, strong energy and a long, expansive finish. It comes across as a Cabernet-driven, aristocratic and structured Mouton rather than an overly ripe or sweet vintage.
Scores
The reception has been very strong. The 2023 vintage has received very high praise from several leading critics. One of the standout ratings is 100 points from Jane Anson, while earlier en primeur assessments were also extremely high across the board. It is worth noting, however, that some of the early scores were based on barrel samples, so they should be read a little differently from final in-bottle ratings.
Why it is so special
What makes it special is partly the name Mouton Rothschild itself — one of the most iconic wines in the world — but also the way the wine is made. Only wine from the finest plots and the best cuvées is selected for the grand vin, amounting to no more than around half of the total production. Mouton is also famous for its tradition of artist-designed labels since 1945. For the 2023 vintage, the label was created by Joana Vasconcelos, marking the first time a Portuguese artist was chosen for the château’s label.
Brief assessment
This appears to be a very serious, age-worthy and classically styled top Bordeaux, showing dark fruit, graphite, chocolate, smoky nuance and a clear Cabernet signature. It is special not only because of its quality, but also because of everything surrounding it: the classification, the history, the strict selection and the artistic legacy of its label.
