The Gramolere vineyard faces south-southwest in Monforte d’Alba on the road towards Perno (the estate’s only vineyard here – the others lie in Verduno) on a soil of calcareous clay and sand. On this high-lying top site, the family owns two hectares planted with vines over 40 years old.
The wines from Monforte are more “broad-shouldered” and have more structure and a more balsamic, minty tar character than the Verduno wines, but even so, you clearly sense Fratelli Alessandria’s refined, finesse-driven style in this wine.
In 2020 they skilfully adapted to the conditions of the vintage, avoiding excessive thinning of the bunches and ensuring a more generous leaf canopy. These choices resulted in a long growing season, and the Nebbiolo harvest began in October, only a week earlier than in the 2019 vintage. The cool autumn nights give the wines the complexity that grapes from an early harvest would lack.
Vinification follows the same approach as for the other crus: fermentation and maceration for four weeks in stainless-steel tanks with very gentle pump-overs to avoid overly dark, coarse aromas. Barolo Gramolere is then aged for about three years in two well-maintained 2,000–3,000-liter casks of Slavonian and French oak before bottling and further bottle ageing.
The decisions made both in the vineyard and in the cellar have given Alessandria’s Barolos an elegance that 95% of all Barolos in the 2020 vintage lack. They are not especially structured, nor do they belong among the most powerful wines, but that is not always what is called for. Gramolere remains the most potent of the estate’s wines, where on the nose and palate you find a conglomerate of finesse and power that unfolds in balsamic fruit, liquorice, tobacco, menthol and tar. The finish is impressively long and, with further bottle age, will only grow markedly in complexity.
Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere will show its full worth when served correctly (in Burgundy glasses at 16–18 °C) and paired with the right food, which in this case could be simple cuts of meat with a good seared crust, especially Piedmont’s hearty, rustic braised dishes, mushroom risotto or roasted game.
95 points + “Cellar Selection”, Wine Enthusiast Magazine
“Picture yourself savoring a glass of this exquisite wine, as a harmonious blend of macerated cherries and savory roasted mushrooms dances on your palate. The umami-rich flavors intertwine with dried flowers and shaved rosewood, creating a sophisticated and alluring bouquet. This wine is a true embodiment of elegance, with a presence that effortlessly captivates your senses. Drink now–2040.”
