Detta \u00e4r ving\u00e5rdsbetecknad rioja fr\u00e5n den old-school-kultproducent som st\u00e5r \u00f6ver dem alla. Det st\u00e5r visserligen crianza p\u00e5 etiketten, men b\u00e5de lagringen och \u00e5ldern kvalificerar den utan vidare som gran reserva. S\u00e5dant \u00e4r det mycket av hos L\u00f3pez de Heredia \u2013 Vi\u00f1a Tondonia, som inte liknar n\u00e5gon annan.<\/p>\n
Vi\u00f1a Cubillo g\u00f6rs p\u00e5 druvor fr\u00e5n ving\u00e5rden Cubillas, d\u00e4r alla stockar med en genomsnitts\u00e5lder p\u00e5 cirka 50 \u00e5r v\u00e4xer som bush vines. Druvorna \u00e4r tempranillo (65 %) och garnacha (25 %), medan resten utg\u00f6rs av mazuelo och graciano. Druvorna handsk\u00f6rdas varsamt i koniska, axelburna tr\u00e4beh\u00e5llare (hemgjorda, naturligtvis), som skyddar klasarna fr\u00e5n tryck s\u00e5 att de n\u00e5r vineriet i toppskick.<\/p>\n
Vinifiering och lagring sker p\u00e5 fat fr\u00e5n husets eget tunnbinderi. J\u00e4sningen sker med naturj\u00e4st i cirka 130 \u00e5r gamla ekkar p\u00e5 24 000 liter, medan vinet lagras i tre \u00e5r p\u00e5 gamla barriquer av amerikansk ek.<\/p>\n
Ingen filtrering anv\u00e4nds \u2013 endast klarning p\u00e5 gammaldags vis med \u00e4ggvita.<\/p>\n
Vi\u00f1a Cubillo \u00e4r ett intensivt vin men utan \u00f6verdriven tyngd. Den h\u00e4r crianzan osar inte av vaniljaromerad boysenb\u00e4rsyoghurt; detta \u00e4r ett fint, slankt och cisel\u00aderat underverk med r\u00f6d och m\u00f6rk b\u00e4rfrukt, flankerad av kaffe-, vanilj- och kokosaromer fr\u00e5n fatet. D\u00e4rtill m\u00e4rks skogsbotsliknande lagringsaromer i ett vin med personlighet och karakt\u00e4r, vars profil samtidigt \u00e4r frisk och vital.<\/p>\n
Njut av den nu eller om en bra handfull \u00e5r; den lagras utm\u00e4rkt.<\/p>\n
93 po\u00e4ng Robert Parker\u2019s Wine Advocate<\/p>\n
\u201cThe super bargain of the portfolio has to be the red 2017 Vi\u00f1a Cubillo Tinto Crianza, which this year shows more development and faster aging, with more tertiary notes than the other reds from 2013 and 2014 that I tasted next to it. The frost of April 2017 killed 100% of the vegetal mass at Cubillo, and the grapes they picked were exclusively from the second generation, therefore fruit that ripened in a much shorter cycle, as the harvest was also earlier. It has notes of damp earth, mushrooms, truffles and forest floor, dry leaves and decayed flowers and herbs. It has a polished palate and is medium-bodied, with mostly resolved tannins, and it feels a little lighter. But it’s still worth it. It was produced with a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo from vines averaging 53 years of age.\u201d<\/p>\n
TWA, Lu\u00eds Gutierrez, februari 2025<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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